Gamay. Not necessarily a heavy-weight, at least, not in the New World. Expectations for memorable Gamay bottles tend to run with the bulls in a Pamplona of the mind, somewhere. No glamour-puss grape, this one.
But then there’s the Sorrenberg 2011 Gamay. A sunburst of crimson fruit that swiftly settles into a mouthful of velvety crush. A wine that seductively commands your attention and in reward, provides a feast for the senses—or a sensual feast. You pick. The thing to remember is Gamays of lesser pedigree can be a bit cloying at times; jejune, tutti-fruity affairs, like driving around the countryside with a “happy camper” type passenger, merrily chatting away non-stop, ingratiating its way around the scenery, slowly managing to diminish the experience. Not this one. Depth, tenderness and devotion while staying charismatic and oh-so-composed. Traces violets and roses rush in like a sudden blush on a delicate face, its perfume lingering well into the next moments. And those moments seem to elongate. It’s a luscious wine with sufficient contrasting notes to provide a measure of seriousness if not out and out gravitas. At one point, a minute or so after swallowing, a hint of clove chimed in, and I found myself shooting a glance at the bottle—you charmer, you.
Upon tasting it the second day what struck me the most was the still-silken texture of the wine and how the essential varietal character of the grape continued to stay present—buoyant, even— while offering up different shadings and perspectives. I’m simply gobsmacked. It’s a ravishing wine of nuance and yes, mystery. And now Barry Morey has become one of my favourite winemakers in Australia—or anywhere.
—Raphael Antonio Nazario
(from 22 Feb. 2012 — VinoVeracity Post)
Sorrenberg 2011 Gamay, 12.5% Alcohol
Barry Morey, winemaker
Beechworth Victoria 3747
Phone: 03 5728 2278